When I bought the RV there were several things that didn't work at all, and one of them was the hydraulic leveling jacks.. Now, I'm proud to say, that they are working, YIPPEE!!!! It's time to rock n roll, or just rock without rolling!
Had many false starts to this and many times got around to analyzing it, such as breaking out the digital multimeter, but never getting them to work. This was my secondary goal about being in New Mexico, the primary was to ride a horse, and what a nice ride she was! Purebred, excellent, heavenly, oh my oh my!
There is also something very great have in New Mexico too, and that's someone who's had 17+ years of RV experience and knows quite a few things about them, so I was able to learn a lot.
With my troubleshooting skills prior, I was able to get power to the control panel, so that it would turn on, and I could hear the relays clicking to and fro when gingerly press the button(s). There were two main things that got me this far. The first being some wiring done by a prior owner (first?), and then a disconnected wire.
|My control panel|
The odd part is that the manual shows correct picture for my control panel, but couldn't find it listed further down in the manual.. Strange.. By comparing backside of the panel with pictures in the manual, was able to find the correct wiring harnesses, shown on page 14 in the jack manual.
|Bonus, Paisley's paw|
As mentioned, there were two problems, the first being no power on one of the pins. After some indecision, and checking ALL the fuses I could find, still no power. Think it was Pin #1 of the 6 pin connector. Now, after doing all that work, waiting some time, going back, you know the drill, it finally dawned on me that the switch label JACKS OVERRIDE SWITCH had something to do with the jacks.. I always flipped it to dim a persistent blinking light.. After flipping this switch so it lit up, making sure key is in correct position, and making sure all prerequisites were in place (Key and parking brake set) finally got power on the pin, YIPPEE! And a slap on the forehead.
However, the jacks still didn't work....
But, my first step is to trace the wiring from the control panel to the ground point, which, as it turns out, is the battery. I identified the ground wire as being one of the thicker wires, and believe it was black with a white stripe. Followed the wiring to the pump motor, and the ground wire split off from there. it went into an abyss above the motor somewhat and I couldn't trace any further.
|Wires on jack pump motor|
My elation was short lived though. It lit up the panel, but nothing beyond that. No warning lights, no buzzer, no nothing, just couple lights, could hear the relays clicking, and no jack movement.. This is a bummer..
|Dirty dirty pump motor|
So, you guessed it, the first step was power washing, and I mean with real water and engine degreaser.. One guess on who the lucky person was to spray the degreaser underneath on all the components, yours truly. I was also very privileged to spray everything down with water.... How lucky I was..
|Nice n clean and straight|
Now, as it was explained to me, the problem with it being bent off level like that is there's a float switch that tells the control panel if there's fluid, or no fluid. Now this is starting to make more sense as to why it's so important to have the pump, and reservoir, level.
|Closeup of float area|
|Metal plate used|
|Closeup of bracket|
If look closely at the picture, can see where the metal is still bent a little. It's very tine consuming to get it perfectly straight, and it took a bit of time to get it this straight. We also had to add some holes. The two bottom ones were there, where see the two bolts, had to add ones on the top to hold everything to the new plate. If look at the above picture, we also put some nylon lock nuts on it to prevent the nuts from vibrating loose.
After this was straightened, we then added Automatic Transmission Fluid. While this wasn't the preferred oil, the manual did state that this is a suitable alternative, and by golly it works. Am sure could've added water too and it would've still somewhat worked, initially at least (NOT recommended to use water, just a bad example that any liquid would've made float switch activate). The oil is added to the bottom of the oil fill tube, with a long funnel to prevent spillage.
This one last step got everything working and functioning fine. Once it was straight, and more oil added (about 1.5 - 2 quarts), this most likely triggered the float switch to report full and cause the pump motor to activate, YIPPEE!
Now, I don't know if had to go through the process of straightening it out, or if only filling up the oil to ull would've worked, as we did it in this order and it worked. Enough said there.
One maintenance tip that was passed on to me, and am passing it on here, is to prevent damage, and possible stuck jacks, they liberally coat the exposed shiny metal with some silicone, such as food grade silicone. Food grade might, and probably is, overkill, but I had it for my 3D printers for lubrication purposes. Now, it's not for all lubrication, but it is valid in some instances.
Still in Texas right now, and having had this working for the last month or so, it all works fine and great. I do notice that after traveling, a little oil underneath the pump reservoir. This is getting less and less and think some of it is splashing out due to normal movement. Will investigate later to see if there's something I can plug, or even if it's supposed to drip like that (to relieve pressure)? Can't imagine it should but one never knows.