Monday, October 26, 2015

Oil, a "novel" use for toilet paper - Part 2 - Bypass Oil Filter Install

This is a continuation of Part 1, where laid the groundwork for the bypass filter installation, where I got it from, and what my plans are for hooking it up.  I did forget one document, actually didn't know it existed, but here's a scan, in pdf form, showing benefits of bypass filtration.

First steps first, plan it all out on paper, and that's precisely what I did..  Grabbed an old envelope from something, a pen, and drew away.  Had thought about it for quite a bit but kept losing track of the parts I had, needed, etc etc.  Wasted couple hours by not jotting it down.  Now, for your viewing pleasure, can now see my chicken scratch in this stunning black and white (mostly) scan, in pdf form..  The document details parts I need per junction.  On right hand side is a list of additional parts I needed.

After this step was complete had to run around different stores to find the parts.  I really like the guys at NAPA as they are more than willing to spend some time to hunt down parts, and was able to get some swivel fittings for me, which really helped me to prevent twisting of the hoses.

First goal - get the source

The purpose of this filter is to siphon off a little oil from the main filter, without impacting oil pressure into the engine, and remove finer particles.  There are several ways of doing this, a pancake adapter that goes between existing filter and the housing, that siphons it off without doing much extra..  I couldn't find a reasonably priced one for my 1" 16 thread on the filter.  It's also possible to get oil by tapping into other areas of the engine but that is beyond my expertise.  The way that I did it is to "simply" add a T adapter to the oil pressure sending unit, and siphon a little oil from here.

Top of oil filter
It's hard to tell from this picture, but this is top of the oil filter.  On top of this there are two 1/8" NPT fittings, one for the oil pressure sending unit (on left with two wires), and other (right) is for an oil line to the stock turbo charger..

I didn't expect anything up here and was surprised there was "stuff" there..  This part took me much longer to do than it should've, and when I had a little emergency on the road (after install was completed) it didn't take me long to find, and fix, that problem.

To get the oil, had to remove the oil pressure sending unit.  First step of that is to remove the two wires (twist nuts on top), and lift it over the posts.  When I first did this, it was really really tough as tried to do it from the top (lifted up bed) with no luck, and did it from the bottom, which scraped myself quite a bit.

Sending unit with T and fitting
Then used an adjustable wrench first, and switched to an open end wrench later, to loosen, and remove, the sending unit.  Can see in this photo where attached wrench to remove it.  Again, I did this in a very hard way by doing it from underneath and reaching my hand straight up.. NOT the smartest move, but I did get smarter...  The way I did it was long, slow, boring, and not scratch resistant.

Sending unit installed with T fitting and hose
This picture also shows one of the T fittings attached.  This one has two female fittings (something slides into the female), and one male fitting, which goes into a female receptacle.  The sending unit has a male thing on it, so it goes into one of the female mounting points.  The barb has a male end on it, so that goes into a female mounting point.  And, since the sending unit has a male thing on it, I needed to reserve the one male thing on this tee to screw into where I took the sending unit out of.

Close side view of install
If didn't get that, don't despair..  This picture shows everything installed and happy.  See the smile..  Use your imagination!!

This picture also shows in detail how it all went together.  Couple things of note, I used teflon tape, however, upon looking up a relevant article, it appears to be PTFE tape.  I still refer to it as teflon for myself.  One other note in this photo is the clamp that I installed.  When was tightening it, the hard way, stripped the clamp itself..  I remember a day when this was virtually impossible, but with everyone using cheaper and cheaper materials that barely meet the spec needed, things like this happen at the most inopportune times.  Did remove this and reinstall.

Overview of location

Here is an overview picture that I took from the easy access point.  This easy access point is through the rear cargo door on the drivers side of the RV (coach), where the air filter resides.  Here it's easy to get a really good view of everything, and easily reach in.  I must confess in that didn't really know about this until fighting with things for couple of hours..  Not a good time..  If had known about this before it would've been soo much quicker..  Did I mention how much quicker it would've been???

Other side of T and sending unit
In these two photo's it also shows line that carries oil.  This is actually fuel line and not high pressure oil line that came with the kit.  This fuel line is rated for 15.x bar (about 50 psi), while the high pressure oil line is rated for 300 psi.  I took a risk, and still am taking a risk, using it here due to heat involved (hot oil at temp is roughly 180 degree Fahrenheit, and can go higher), but it was also SOO MUCH EASIER to put on.  Another risk is it could come sliding off as it was really easy to go on, but the clamp will hold it nice and snug and ooh so tightly.  It still warrants an inspection now and then.

Second goal - put it back in circulation

Here is where am returning the oil, after it passed through the toilet paper..  Pretty easy you think??  Yup I say!  A nice change of pace.

There is a little trick to this one, but it was a really easy thing to do, with minimal, but some, mess.  This existing plug seems to be an add on oil sensor that one of the prior owners (first one probably) added.  On the other end of this is a solid shaft that sticks half inch, or so, into the oil pan.  It seems like it's solid and comes out to here, where on the outside of this is a little hook type thing where I envision the sensor wire being attached.  When I started this don't exactly recall a wire being attached, but have a funny feeling there was at one point in time.

One other thing is that this was all covered in something like GOOP, so had to remove all of that.

The tricky part is that since this is near bottom of the oil pan, and full of oil, there's oil above this.  I really didn't want to drain the oil, so with my nitrile gloves on, took the plug out and put my finger over the hole.  Lost a little oil but not really all that much.  Sadly, I didn't get a picture because all my hands were occupied.

Return fully installed
However, did take a picture of the final product.  Everything (the T and all connectors), was assembled prior to removing the plug, and subsequent use of finger to stop oil leak.  I covered end of hose in electrical tape to both prevent sand from getting in there and help prevent oil from getting out.  I then looped it up and over something so that a point in the line (doesn't have to be an end) is above the oil level in the pan.

Now, there's an untold part to this.  The original temperature sensor was drilled into an M22 plug that seals up the oil pan.  Not sure why this was here to begin with, but it was very useful!

There are other places I could've put this, such as in the oil fill cap, or punched another hole in the oil pan, through the valve covers, or other innovative areas.  The thing is don't want any pressure on this side as it drains from the filter.  This point is also below where I mounted the filters, which will help drainage, and changing filter elements.

Third goal - attach filter and complete the loop

A hole in the beam
I waffled on where to put this.  Had originally wanted to put it in back by radiator, then thought that it would be better in same compartment as air filter, but finally wound back by radiator.  This see-saw was due to oil hose routing.  There was no easy way to avoid the exhaust pipe if routed it to the compartment, plus would've had problems getting filter high enough to properly drain.

Pre-tapping before filter base
So, with radiator place chosen, first step came drilling holes in the tow bar.  Some things to keep in mind were: 1) Keep drilled holes close to middle as possible 2) Use as small of a pilot drill as possible 3) I used self tapping bolts (not included) and these made threads for me 4) Keep everything nice and tight and oh so cozy.  All of this is meant to keep as much strength in the steel bar as possible without overly weakening it.

Ain't it purrdy
After pilot hole was drilled, time to use one of the self tapping screw / bolt things to enlarge the hole and create threads.  I did it this way as the pilot hole made it easier to put everything exactly where I want.  The bigger the initial hole it's generally harder to drill and less precise.  Could've made it a bit more precise by using a little metal punch to dent metal where wanted the screw to go, but didn't do that.

I wasn't exactly on the ball when did the first mount (at top of picture), but the second one is exactly where wanted it.  This will work great and everything is secured nice and tightly.  This was a dream, dry right now.

Even purrdier, everything in place and tight
There are two bolts that go underneath the filter housing and hold it to the base.  There is a washer on the outside and a lock washer on the inside.  Make sure that the lock washer is on side with the nut as it'll help prevent the nut from coming off and potentially ruining our day.

I am missing a picture of the process, but prior to mounting these filters, if look at the install instructions, there are two connections to be made on bottom, the input and output.  For this, I chose to have the output be a 90 degree elbow while the input is a 45 degree elbow.  My rationale for this is to keep as much pressure as possible going into the filter in the thoughts that this will help make cleaner oil.  The 45 degree elbow doesn't reduce pressure as much as a 90 degree one.  I was told that this method is great for reverse osmosis water filtration, so kinda hoping it'll work similar here too.  With the 90 degree going out, there should be no real pressure so it would just "fall" out.  In this manner it also helps prevent the hoses from potentially interfering with each other.

Dirty oil T
Due to having the two bypass filters, as explained in Part 1,  have to split the oil lines, or find two return and/or source locations.  I chose to split, easier on the mind.  To split I used a simple T, but with a LOT of parts.

As can be seen in my chicken scratch diagram of the setup, have one swivel fitting and two non swivel.  This needed a couple extra parts.  I put the non swivel ones going up to the filter (or down from the filter), and the swivel one on the long line coming to, or from, this T.  Underneath the filter I have swivel fittings up there and this is to reduce risk of twisting the hose while connecting it all together.  Tied this off to one of the hitch supports with bailing wire.

Clean T with sampling valve
The return line T was a little different, but mostly the same.  The difference was needed two T's due to inclusion of an oil sampling valve.  I also secured this with bailing wire, but to a different location.

With the T's that were included, and my process for keeping things somewhat simplified, the amount of oil going through the filter will never be the same.  This is because one side of the T is a straight shot from the source, and the other one branches off at a 90 degree angle.  If I had needed them to be as even as possible would've put the source in the middle and each split off to one side.  I wanted to use all the existing parts I had as possible, and to keep all connections somewhat the same, so this was a small design trade-off.  Hope it doesn't impact anything later on.

Final goal - Check for leaks

This final step was a little nerve wracking from the point of uncertainty.  However, it went off flawlessly.

First step was to do a quick visual on all the connections and adjust them as necessary, then came the moment of truth, time to start the engine.

It started perfectly and had no initial leaks at all, none, zero, zilch, YAY YAY.

Time to shut off engine and relax!!!!

The trip, and an issue

Oil, Oil, Oil
I left where I was in New Mexico and was making my way to Albuquerque, NM, to pick up a spare tire for my platform.  There were some occasional showers and such along the way and thought nothing of it when saw more and more drops appearing on the rear view camera.  The drops kept appearing, and naive me thought it was just rain and water from the road.  I started looking around for places to pull over and found an abandoned restaurant in San Ysidro, NM, to do a quick check...

That didn't look good, but decided to keep going as still had decent oil pressure but it was starting to fluctuate a little.

It wasn't until pressure dropped to about 1/2 that I started to really worry.  I then looked for the first place I could and found a weigh station.  Couldn't really pull over to side of road as my access point is on the drivers side.

Overview of leak area
First thing I noticed was oil dripping from lots and lots of places in the back of the coach (RV).  There was a sheen of oil all over the place in the back, and could see it running down and down and down.  Let the engine sit off for a little while while did some additional research.

I learned a good thing to do while looking in those hard to reach places.  If my smart phone fits, I take a picture, with flash.  This way it's easier to be certain before going off on wild goose chases.  So here I can see the general area of the leak and how it's all full of an oily mess, but notice that the cable sheath is dry above a certain point.

Leaking from loose threads?
At this point I moved the hose to the side and this caused the T fitting to rotate..  NOT a good thing as it moved somewhat freely.

My first thought was that it's leaking due to the movement here as it wasn't fully tightened anymore.  I thought the oil leaked up through the threads and sprayed all over the place.

Now, am sure that's not it, due to oil not being splashed up.  In picture to the right can see that above the hose itself is completely dry.  This leads me to believe that the hose itself is cause of the problem, specifically at the hose clamp, probably on the underneath of it.

Confirming source of leak
At least for the moment I decided not to fix it and make it to my first destination where took some of these pictures..  Prior to moving again I added two gallons of oil, as that's how much I lost.

It seems, from these pictures, that the hose clamp moved somewhat and I think it caused the leak, or that the band that goes around the hose caught a corner on edge of the T, which caused the hose to have a weak spot in the fitting.  Either way it really looks like underneath the hose is where the leak came from, with it shooting towards the base of the T, spraying out and dripping down.

After getting to my destination, got my spare tire, decided to head to
Costco to get oil.  Turns out got there 5 minutes too late, boo hoo.  Then headed off to Walmart to get more oil and spend the night.  It was at Walmart where I fixed this by replacing the clamp, cutting off end of fuel / oil line, and reattaching it and clamping it down.  I also tightened the T one more full turn (had to remove barb).

All fixed and attache.
I added two more gallons of oil and let it all idle, get up to temperature, and nary a leak appeared.  Took some more pictures to validate it all looks good and kosher and tight.  Some things are good even when it's loose and wet, but in this case it's best when it's tight and dry.

Even now, a week or so later, not a single leak to be found!  Though will keep monitoring it.

One thing to note is that the wires connecting oil pressure sending unit to the gauge has to be on the proper terminal.  If it's not on the proper terminal then it reports max oil pressure.  Made sure that it read pressure properly before heading off.

Summary of documents and other addendum

Here is a brief summary of all the documents I have for this, in no specific order:
Bypass Filter Benefits

Complete documentation

My chicken scratch diagram

Installation instructions

Filter Media replacement information

How to Service filter

Folder with all my computerized RV documents


There is some concern by people that the additives, detergents, etc., in the motor oil will be depleted when using this filter.  I have no direct experience yet, but from what I've read so far, enough of these detergents are replaced when adding extra oil during a filter media change.  The recommendation is to add one quart of oil for every filter replaced.  In my case this is two quarts of oil added every 3,000 miles or so.  With where I mounted this it's fairly easy to get to these and replace them.  The oil fill tube is in same compartment!

Another benefit is that this will remove water from the oil, which is present in generally all engines.  Water helps acid form, and when acid forms this does some bad stuff in the engine..  Bad I say, bad.  Not that I'm an expert, just some stuff I've read.


Proper way to wrap with PTFE, notice doesn't extend past threads on open end

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